Queen Bees, Bee Packages, Beekeeping Equipment
Honey Bee Common Diseases
And Pests
This is still a work in progress and is not finished yet. But this page is intended as a practical reference to help identify common hive diseases and pests. Sources are listed at the bottom of the page for transparency and further reading. I am not a veterinarian, entomologist, microbiologist, or medical professional, and nothing here should be taken as professional or medical advice.
Nothing on this page should be interpreted as a diagnosis or treatment plan.
When in doubt, consult a qualified expert, local extension office, or trusted mentor—and use your own judgment when making decisions for your bees.
If you disagree with something written here, I genuinely want to hear from you. If I’ve missed something, overlooked a detail, or if new information comes to light, please reach out. Beekeeping is an ever-changing landscape, and the only way we get better at it is by sharing information, comparing notes, and learning together.
The Parasites of Adult Bees
Another look on Nosema Click Here
Bottom Line
Signs You Might See
Prevention & Management Focus
Diagnosis (Reality Check)
Colony-Level Signs
Adult Bee Signs
A Guide for Testing Yourself Click Here
When to Consider Lab Testing
A Common Trigger I’ve Seen: Poor or Fermented Feed
Where and how to send samples for testing Click Here
(Nosema apis & Nosema ceranae)
Nosema is a microscopic pathogen that infects the digestive tract of honey bees. It primarily affects the midgut and can interfere with digestion, nutrient absorption, and overall bee health.
There are two primary species that affect honey bees:
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Nosema apis – historically more common in colder climates and often associated with visible dysentery
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Nosema ceranae – a newer species in North America, originally from Asia, now widespread and often more subtle in presentation
In many parts of the U.S., N. ceranae appears to be replacing N. apis. While it is often considered less visibly aggressive, it can still weaken colonies by stressing the bees’ immune systems and increasing susceptibility to other problems.
Nosema is most commonly an issue in late winter and early spring, when bees are confined to the hive for long periods and sanitation breaks down. Infection can affect workers, drones, and queens, and may spread quietly through an apiary before obvious signs appear.
Nosema cannot be confirmed by visual inspection alone, but certain patterns can raise suspicion.
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Distended abdomens
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Disjointed or weak wing posture
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Reduced vitality or shortened lifespan
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Gradual population decline in late winter or early spring
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Poor buildup despite adequate stores
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Queen loss or supersedure
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Fecal spotting on frames, lids, or hive equipment
Important note: Dysentery alone does not automatically mean Nosema, and Nosema does not always produce visible dysentery—especially with N. ceranae.
A true Nosema diagnosis requires microscopic examination of bee gut contents or feces. This typically involves collecting multiple adult bees and examining samples at high magnification.
Most backyard beekeepers do not have the equipment needed to confirm Nosema on their own. Because of this, Nosema is often treated as a management consideration, not a certainty, unless lab confirmation is obtained.
Rather than chasing Nosema directly, the most effective approach is to reduce stress and support colony health:
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Maintain strong colonies with young, productive queens
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Rotate out old, dark comb regularly
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Ensure good ventilation and moisture control, especially in winter
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Provide supplemental feed when natural forage is limited
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Recognize Nosema as a secondary stressor, often signaling that something else may be out of balance
Strong, well-managed colonies routinely tolerate Nosema without collapsing.
Nosema is common, often misunderstood, and rarely the sole cause of colony failure. In many cases, it shows up alongside other stressors rather than acting alone.
Good beekeeping practices—strong queens, clean comb, dry hives, and adequate nutrition—remain the best defense.
In my own experience, Nosema-like symptoms often show up after feeding issues, not out of nowhere.
Old syrup, fermented feed, contaminated water sources, candy boards that sit for too long, or feed that sat warm for too long can stress bees and disrupt gut health. When that happens, Nosema can take hold more easily, or at least become more noticeable.
This is especially common:
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In late winter or early spring feeding
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When syrup is mixed in advance and stored warm
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When feed smells sour, yeasty, or “off”
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When colonies are already under stress
Clean feed won’t prevent Nosema on its own, but poor feed can absolutely make it worse.
If symptoms appear shortly after feeding, the first step is often to stop feeding, clean up equipment, and reassess, rather than assuming a disease outbreak.
Because Nosema cannot be confirmed visually, lab testing is worth considering when:
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A colony continues to decline despite good stores and management
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Multiple colonies show similar symptoms at the same time
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Queen losses or population collapse occur without an obvious cause
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You want confirmation before making major management decisions
Many state extension services, university labs, or bee diagnostic programs offer affordable testing and can help interpret results.
Testing isn’t always necessary, but when things don’t add up, data beats guessing.
Tracheal Mites
(Acarapis woodi)
Tracheal mites are microscopic parasites that live inside the tracheae (air tubes) of adult honey bees. Rather than attacking brood or comb, they interfere directly with a bee’s ability to breathe.
At their peak, tracheal mites were a major driver of colony losses in North America and Europe. Today, they are far less common—but not gone—and their decline is largely due to changes in bee genetics and modern management practices rather than eradication.
Tracheal mites enter bees through the thoracic spiracles and reproduce inside the tracheal system. Heavy infestations reduce oxygen exchange, weaken bees, and shorten lifespan.
Colonies most affected are typically:
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Overwintering or early-spring colonies
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Colonies already under stress
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Older genetic lines with little mite tolerance
Because tracheal mites live internally, no external sign is definitive. However, colonies may show:
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Bees crawling in front of the hive
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Bees unable to fly or appearing disoriented
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“K-wing” (wings disjointed at odd angles)
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Reduced foraging despite good weather
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Large numbers of bees remaining inside the hive
⚠️ Important: These symptoms can also indicate pesticide exposure, Deformed Wing Virus (DWV), starvation, or other stressors. Further investigation is always required.
Tracheal mite infection can only be confirmed by dissection and microscopy. Bees must be sectioned through the thorax and examined for mites or scarring of the tracheae.
Because of the labor involved and the relatively low prevalence today, most backyard beekeepers do not test routinely. Lab confirmation is generally reserved for research, extension diagnostics, or unexplained large-scale losses.
My personal experience with what may have been tracheal mites is one that took me nearly six years to even recognize.
The hive in question was a swarm I caught in California and later brought back to Colorado. It was a good-sized swarm larger than most of my nucs, and on paper it should have thrived.
It didn’t.
I fed the hive, and they wouldn’t draw comb.
I gave them drawn comb, and the queen wouldn’t lay.
The bees would sit on the frames, alive but stagnant, as if nothing ever really got going.
I jokingly called it my “welfare hive.” I tried reinforcing it, adjusting feed, giving it time, and giving it more chances than most hives ever get. Eventually, despite all of that, the colony dwindled and died out.
At the time, I shrugged it off. Bees are different. Some hives are just… strange. That happens often enough in beekeeping that you learn to accept it and move on.
It wasn’t until years later, while researching bee diseases in detail, that tracheal mites came back onto my radar as a possible explanation. The symptoms lined up in a way I hadn’t recognized before.
I’ll never know for sure what that hive was dealing with.
But that experience taught me something important:
Sometimes we don’t get answers right away.
And sometimes the lesson shows up years later, when we finally have the context to see it.
Even if I was late to that realization, I hope it helps me spot it sooner the next time I encounter something like it.
What They Do
Common Signs (Not Diagnostic on Their Own)
Diagnosis (Why It’s Rarely Done by Hobbyists)
A Note From the Field
Why Tracheal Mites Matter Historically
The Buckfast Bee Story
One of the most important chapters in modern beekeeping came directly from tracheal mite devastation.
In the early 1900s, tracheal mites (Acarapis woodi) swept through Europe, particularly the British Isles, causing catastrophic colony losses, what was then called “Isle of Wight Disease.”
At Buckfast Abbey in England, Brother Adam, a monk and beekeeper, faced near-total colony collapse. Rather than relying solely on treatments, he took a different approach:
He bred bees for survival.
By selectively crossing bees from regions that showed natural resistance and vitality, he developed what became known as the Buckfast bee—a strain bred specifically for:
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Resistance to tracheal mites
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Improved vitality and longevity
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Calm temperament
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Strong spring buildup
This work fundamentally shifted beekeeping toward genetic resilience, a philosophy that still shapes breeding programs today.
Many modern bees—whether labeled Buckfast or not—carry genetics influenced by this effort. That is a major reason tracheal mites are far less destructive now than they once were.
Hive Pests
Identification (Avoiding Confusion)
Small Hive Beetle (Aethina tumida)
Small hive beetle (SHB) is a hive pest that causes significant damage in warm, humid climates. While it is a major issue in the southeastern United States and other humid regions, small hive beetle is not currently established in Colorado due to our cold winters and dry soil conditions.
That said, Colorado beekeepers should still be able to identify small hive beetle in the event of:
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Bees or equipment moved from out of state
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Travel, pollination, or relocation
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Visiting apiaries in SHB-endemic regions
This section is intended for education and identification, not alarm.
Small hive beetle larvae must leave the hive and pupate in moist soil to complete their life cycle. Colorado’s low humidity, dry soils, and prolonged winter freezes make successful reproduction extremely unlikely. Adult beetles may occasionally hitchhike into the state, but without suitable soil conditions, they fail to establish breeding populations.
In short:
You may see one someday but you are unlikely to have a problem I personally think that they are pretty cute. But can be extremely frustrating to deal with.
In regions where SHB thrives, heavy infestations can overwhelm weak colonies. Larvae tunnel through comb, contaminate honey, and cause fermentation. In extreme cases, colonies may abscond.
This level of damage does not occur naturally in Colorado, but understanding the signs helps with correct identification.
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Adult beetles visible running across frames or hiding in corners
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Larvae in comb causing honey to ferment or “slime”
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Comb appearing wet, greasy, or collapsing
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Reduced colony population in heavily infested hives
Important note: These signs are common in warm, humid climates and are not typical of Colorado apiaries.
Adult Small Hive Beetle(can bee confused for a sap beetle, more info on sap beetle Here)
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Brown to black, oval-shaped body
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Approximately 5–7 mm long
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Antennae end in small club shapes
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Often hides quickly when exposed to light
Larvae (Commonly Confused With Wax Moth)
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Cream-colored body with brown head
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Noticeable dorsal spines
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Stubby false legs (prolegs) near the head and tail
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Smaller than wax moth larvae
Key distinction:
Wax moth larvae are larger and smooth.
SHB larvae have visible spines.
Why Beekeepers Confuse SHB With Wax Moth
Small hive beetle larvae and wax moth larvae are frequently confused. In Colorado, wax moth is the far more likely culprit.
If you are seeing larvae damage in this state, start by assuming wax moth until proven otherwise.
Prevention (Colorado Context)
Because SHB does not establish here, prevention is simple:
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Avoid importing used equipment from SHB-endemic regions without inspection
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Maintain strong colonies
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Store equipment properly
Healthy colonies in Colorado are naturally resistant to SHB pressure.
Small hive beetle is a serious pest elsewhere, but not here. Knowing what it looks like prevents misdiagnosis, unnecessary treatments, and stress.
If you believe you have encountered SHB in Colorado, document it and reach out. Identification matters.
What Damage Looks Like
Signs of Small Hive Beetle Activity
Why SHB Struggles in Colorado
Bottom Line
For a more comprehensive look at the small hive beetle Click Here
Wax Moths
Storage and Prevention
A note from experience
How to spot wax moth activity
Galleria mellonella (Greater Wax Moth)
Wax moths are a common hive pest that primarily affect
weakened colonies and stored equipment.
Fortunately, here in Colorado we don’t deal with them nearly
as often as beekeepers in warmer climates, where wax moths
can stay active year-round.
There are two wax moth species found in North America:
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The greater wax moth (Galleria mellonella)
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The lesser wax moth (Achroia grisella)
The lesser wax moth prefers consistently warm climates and is far less common in temperate regions. For most Colorado beekeepers, the greater wax moth is the one you’re likely to encounter, so that’s what this section focuses on. If you’re interested in the lesser wax moth, you can find more information Here.
Wax moths don’t attack healthy bees directly. Instead, they cause damage by chewing and tunneling through drawn comb, which can render valuable brood frames and stored equipment unusable. Adult wax moths lay their eggs on drawn comb and other protected surfaces inside weak colonies or unattended boxes. Once the eggs hatch, the larvae burrow through the comb, feeding on old wax, cocoons, and debris left behind from brood rearing.
Strong colonies usually keep wax moths in check. Wax moth problems are almost always a symptom of a hive already struggling, not the original cause.
Common signs include:
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Webbing on drawn comb
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Small pellets of frass (wax moth droppings) on frames
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Tunneled or collapsing comb
As wax moth larvae move through brood frames, they leave behind long, winding tunnels reinforced with silk-like webbing. Bees can detect this activity and will attempt to remove the intruder. In doing so, they may uncap developing brood cells in an effort to reach the wax moth larva.
This can result in what beekeepers often call “bald brood.” Bald brood caused by wax moth damage can look similar to hygienic behavior or brood uncapping associated with Varroa mites. The difference is that wax moth-related damage often follows a linear or winding pattern, matching the path of the larva through the comb, rather than scattered uncapping.
In practice, wax moths are best controlled by keeping colonies strong, managing space appropriately, and storing unused equipment correctly. In Colorado, cold winters are an ally — freezing temperatures naturally interrupt the wax moth life cycle and make long-term infestations far less common than in southern climates.
If you see wax moth damage, take it as a signal to look closely at overall colony strength and equipment management rather than assuming the moth itself is the primary problem.
Wax moths thrive where bees are absent and temperatures are warm. The best prevention is simple: strong colonies and good storage habits.
For active hives, wax moth damage is usually a sign that the colony is already under stress. Keeping colonies appropriately sized for their population and avoiding excess empty comb goes a long way toward prevention.
For stored equipment, Colorado beekeepers have a major advantage: cold.
Unused frames and boxes can be safely stored in freezing temperatures. Wax moth eggs and larvae do not survive extended cold exposure, making winter an effective natural control. Many beekeepers rotate equipment through a deep freeze(they parish in 19.4 F (-7 C) or below after 24 to 48 hours.) or store boxes in unheated sheds during winter months.
When storing comb:
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Store boxes in a dry and well ventilated area
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Avoid dark, warm, sealed spaces
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Stack boxes so air can move through them
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Periodically inspect stored comb, especially during warm spells
Strong airflow, cold temperatures, and clean storage conditions make wax moth infestations unlikely. If wax moths become established in stored equipment, it’s often an indication that the storage environment needs adjustment.
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For a more comprehensive look at the Wax Moth Click Here
Diseases and Disorders in Brood
American Foulbrood (AFB)
What Causes AFB?
Diagnostic Technique: The Ropiness Test
Signs of American Foulbrood
Why AFB Is Serious
Confirming AFB
Final Note for Beekeepers
American Foulbrood (AFB) is a serious bacterial disease of honey bee brood caused by Paenibacillus larvae. It affects honey bees during the larval stage and is considered one of the most destructive brood diseases in beekeeping.
AFB is highly contagious and can spread between colonies through robbing, drifting, contaminated equipment, or feeding infected materials.
AFB occurs when honey bee larvae ingest spores of Paenibacillus larvae. These spores germinate inside the larva, where the bacteria multiply rapidly and use the larva as a food source.
Larvae usually die shortly after the cell is capped, though in some cases death may occur later, even after pupation.
AFB spores are extremely durable and can remain viable for decades on contaminated equipment.
Common signs of AFB include:
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Spotty brood pattern
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Sunken or perforated brood cappings
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Greasy or wet-looking cappings
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Larvae that melt down into the bottom of the cell
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Color changes in larvae, progressing from dull white to brown
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Coffee-brown to black “scale” on the bottom of cells that is difficult to remove
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Strong, unpleasant odor, often compared to rotting meat or sulfur
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Protruding pupal tongues (rare)
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A common field diagnostic method is the ropiness test:
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Uncap a suspect brood cell.
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Use a toothpick or small stick to gently stir the larval remains.
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Slowly withdraw the toothpick from the cell.
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If the larval remains stretch or “rope” more than 2 cm (about 1 inch) before breaking, AFB is very likely.
While field tests can strongly indicate AFB, confirmation can be done through:
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Commercial AFB field test kits
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Submitting brood samples to a laboratory or the USDA for confirmation
AFB is extremely contagious. Once confirmed:
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Infected colonies cannot be cured
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Contaminated equipment can spread spores
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Woodenware often must be destroyed by burning
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Some solid wooden components may be decontaminated by scorching, depending on regulations
Always follow state and local regulations regarding AFB management.
Early detection and prevention are critical. Learning to recognize AFB signs is an essential skill for all beekeepers, especially those managing multiple colonies or sharing equipment.
If AFB is suspected, act quickly and seek confirmation before moving equipment or bees. For a different perspective on AFB Article Here.
European Foulbrood (EFB)
Prevention and Management Practices
What Causes EFB?
Signs of European Foulbrood
Diagnostic Technique
Why EFB Is Different From AFB
Final Note for Beekeepers
European Foulbrood (EFB) is a brood disease of honey bees caused by the bacterium Melissococcus plutonius. It affects honey bee larvae during early development and is most commonly seen when colonies are under stress.
Unlike American Foulbrood, EFB does not produce long-lasting spores, but it can still spread rapidly within and between apiaries if not managed properly.
EFB occurs when Melissococcus plutonius infects young larvae. The bacteria compete directly with the larva for food in the gut, eventually causing starvation and death.
Larvae usually die at 4–5 days old, often before the cell is capped. EFB is frequently associated with stress factors such as:
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Nutritional stress or nectar dearth
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Insufficient nurse bees
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Overcrowding
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Rapid colony expansion or brood rearing
Several secondary bacteria may be present alongside EFB and can influence how the disease appears.
Common signs of EFB include:
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“C”-shaped larvae, often twisted or curled upward
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Whitish-yellow larvae that darken to brown over time
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Deflated larvae lying on the floor of the cell
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Visible tracheal system (often white against a grayish or brown larva)
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Inconsistent brood pattern, often very spotty
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Scale that is usually brown to black and sunken into the cell floor
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Odors that may be sour, fish-like, or absent entirely (varies with secondary bacteria)
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Signs are often first noticed near the edges of the brood nest
Moderate to severe EFB can resemble symptoms of a failing queen due to the irregular brood pattern. Shown below is a spotty pattern that I would take a second look at.
EFB cannot be reliably diagnosed by visual signs alone.
Confirmation methods include:
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Using a Vita Bee Health EFB field test kit
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Sending samples of infected larvae to a laboratory or the USDA for confirmation
While EFB larvae may sometimes “rope,” the stretch is typically shorter (up to ~1.5 cm) than with American Foulbrood.
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EFB does not form spores
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Equipment can be reused after proper cleaning
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Colonies may recover if stress factors are corrected
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EFB is still contagious and should be managed carefully
For an article on how to treat EFB Click Here.
Good management practices are key to preventing and controlling EFB:
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Do not transfer equipment from infected colonies to healthy ones
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Ensure colonies are well fed, especially during nectar dearths
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Maintain strong populations with adequate nurse bees
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Avoid over-splitting or creating weak nucs
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Watch for spotty brood patterns when making splits or nucs
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Train crew or helpers to recognize early disease signs
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Clean tools and equipment between yards to prevent spread
European Foulbrood is often a management and nutrition problem, not just a pathogen issue. Early detection and correcting colony stress can prevent escalation and loss.
Understanding the difference between EFB and AFB is critical, as the response and consequences are very different. For another look Click Here
Chalkbrood
What Causes Chalkbrood?
Signs of Chalkbrood
Prevention and Management Practices
Diagnostic Technique
Sanitation and Equipment Management
Reduce Colony Stress
The mummies in this picture is a little larger than in real life. Better picture to come.
Chalkbrood is a brood disease of honey bees caused by the fungus Ascosphaera apis. It primarily affects young larvae and is most commonly observed in the spring, though it can occur at any time of year.
Chalkbrood infects 1–4 day old larvae of any caste (workers, drones, or queens). Infection occurs when larvae ingest brood food contaminated with A. apis spores.
Once ingested, Ascosphaera apis spores germinate in the larva’s gut, penetrate surrounding tissues, and proliferate throughout the developing bee.
The fungus eventually kills the larva, consuming its contents and leaving behind a hard, shrunken, “chalk-like” mummy that contains infectious spores.
Chalkbrood mummies may appear:
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White to gray in early stages
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Black in later stages when the fungus produces sexual spores
The black stage is considered the most infectious phase of Chalkbrood.
Spores can spread within a colony via nurse bees and between colonies through drifting, robbing, feeding, or mating activity. A. apis spores can also persist for several years in hive equipment, increasing reinfection risk if sanitation is poor.
Chalkbrood mummies are often found at the hive entrance or on bottom boards as workers remove infected larvae.
Common signs include:
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Spotty brood pattern
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Chalk-like mummies (white, gray, or black) in open brood cells
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Mummies visible at the hive entrance or on the bottom board
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Larvae that appear hardened, shrunken, and lightweight
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Early Chalkbrood can resemble Sacbrood Virus (SBV), but:
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Chalkbrood larvae tend to be more rounded
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The larval head is less defined
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Larvae often have a sunken appearance
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Chalkbrood is typically diagnosed by visual identification.
Later-stage mummies are especially distinctive and easily recognized. Laboratory confirmation is usually unnecessary when classic signs are present.
There is no cure for Chalkbrood, but good management practices can greatly reduce its impact.
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Keep equipment clean, especially bottom boards
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Avoid transferring contaminated comb between colonies
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Remove old or heavily contaminated comb from service
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Minimize environmental stressors such as pesticide exposure
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Improve access to diverse forage to support immune health
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Reduce co-infections with other pests and diseases
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Maintain strong colonies with adequate population
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Improve ventilation and airflow within the hive
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Avoid creating weak or under-resourced splits
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Reduce moisture if present, see if water is pooled on the baseboard
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Re-queen with stock selected for hygienic behavior, which helps colonies remove infected brood more effectively
There are no approved curative treatments for Chalkbrood.
Some management approaches that may help reduce symptoms include:
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Re-queening with hygienic stock
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Improving nutrition and colony strength
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Increasing ventilation
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Thymol-based treatments have shown some effectiveness in limited cases, but results can vary
Chalkbrood is often a stress-related disease, not a sign of poor beekeeping. Colonies may recover on their own when environmental conditions improve and stress is reduced.
Good sanitation, strong colonies, and sound management are the most effective tools for controlling Chalkbrood. Another look at chalkbrood Here
Colony Strength and Environment
Genetics
Treatment Considerations
Final Note for Beekeepers
Key Takeaway for Beekeepers
How CDB Appears in the Hive
Prevention and Management
Chewed Down Brood (CDB)
What Causes Chewed Down Brood?
Signs of Chewed Down Brood
Relationship to Varroa and PMS
Diagnostic Technique
Support Hygienic Colonies
Manage Varroa Proactively
Biosecurity
Prevent Starvation
Chewed Down Brood (CDB) is not a disease itself, but a behavioral condition in honey bee colonies. It occurs when worker bees chew, remove, and sometimes cannibalize brood within the hive.
CDB most commonly results from hygienic behavior, but it can also occur due to starvation or as a response to other underlying brood diseases.
1. Hygienic Behavior
In hygienic colonies, workers actively detect and remove dead, diseased, or abnormal brood to protect the colony. When this happens, workers chew down affected larvae or pupae and remove them from cells.
This form of CDB is beneficial behavior, not a problem by itself.
2. Starvation and Cannibalism
CDB can also occur when colonies experience food shortages. In these cases, workers may cannibalize healthy brood as an emergency protein source.
Colonies experiencing starvation-related CDB often show:
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Low food stores
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Lethargic workers
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Dead bees head-down in cells
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Brood that appears melted down and can resemble European Foulbrood (EFB)
CDB caused by hygienic behavior looks different from starvation-related CDB:
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Hygienic CDB
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Workers remove dead or diseased brood
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Often results in a spotty brood pattern
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Commonly seen alongside diseases like EFB, AFB, or Chalkbrood
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Very hygienic colonies may be harder to diagnose because sick brood is removed quickly
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Starvation-Related CDB
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Workers cannibalize healthy brood
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Damage often appears in patches
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Brood may appear melted and easily confused with EFB
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CDB frequently occurs in combination with other issues, not as a standalone problem.
When Chewed Down Brood is observed alongside visible mites on bees or in brood cells, it is often considered a sign of Parasitic Mite Syndrome (PMS).
In these cases, workers are responding to brood damaged by Varroa mites and associated viruses, aggressively removing affected larvae and pupae.
Common signs include:
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Pupae with heads chewed down
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Perforated or uncapped cells
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Spotty brood pattern
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Melted white brood that darkens over time as bacteria move in
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Irregular brood removal without the classic odor or scale seen in foulbrood diseases
Chewed Down Brood is diagnosed through visual identification.
There is no laboratory test for CDB, as it represents colony behavior rather than a pathogen.
Correct diagnosis depends on evaluating:
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Colony food stores
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Presence of mites
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Signs of other brood diseases
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Overall colony strength and behavior
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Monitor mite levels every 3–4 weeks
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Treat when thresholds are exceeded using appropriate methods
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Use queens bred for hygienic behavior
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Understand that hygienic behavior may temporarily worsen brood appearance while improving colony health long-term
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Ensure colonies have adequate food stores
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Feed when necessary during dearths or early buildup
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Isolate newly acquired equipment or colonies
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Monitor for signs of disease before integrating into existing yards
Chewed Down Brood is often a symptom, not the root problem.
It may indicate:
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A hygienic colony responding correctly to disease
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Nutritional stress or starvation
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Varroa pressure and PMS
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The presence of other brood diseases
Understanding why the brood is being removed is more important than the appearance of the brood itself. Another look at chewed down brood Here.